The 5th: Tenryo Shuzo Co., Ltd. (Gero City, Gifu Prefecture)

Toji (杜氏), Kazunari Katagiri

Interviewee: Toji (杜氏) Kazunari Katagiri (hereafter "Katagiri")

Interviewer: bien — Ayako Yoshida (hereafter "bien")

Katagiri: I'm originally from Ichinomiya City in Aichi Prefecture.

At 21, I was drawn to Gero with its beautiful nature,

and now 23 years have passed.

I learned from the previous toji, and nine years ago I took over the role myself.

bien: You made a bold decision at 21. What first drew you to sake making?

Katagiri: When I was a student, I studied biotechnology, so I was interested in living things.

The organisms in sake making are invisible, but it's the same — working with living things. Surrounded by water and abundant nature, I found it fascinating.

It's also a traditional industry, and I enjoy making things — things that take lasting form.

bien: Captivated by sake making for 23 years. Has there ever been a time you found it hard?

Katagiri: Hmm, not really,

but there is a flavor that defines the brand,

and the challenge is how to land in that flavor zone.

bien: What do you pay attention to daily for that?

Katagiri: Keeping the state of the steamed rice stable.

A rubbery elasticity is ideal.

bien: You press the freshly steamed, piping-hot rice in your palm to check it, right?

I nearly burned myself (laughs).

What's the fun part?

Katagiri: The brewing process is the same, but since we're working with microorganisms, it's invisible.

The final result changes with the smallest thing.

Drawing on my experience and instincts there,

when a good sake comes out, it brings a sense of accomplishment — that's the fun.

bien: I see. No matter how much the human side repeats the same process, the counterpart is a living thing,

so it requires the flexibility to adapt to the natural environment.

Could you sum up the character of Tenryo's sake?

Katagiri: We use local rice called Hidahomare.

Using this rice gives the sake fuller flavor, a rich aroma, and a clean finish.

It pairs wonderfully with Hida cuisine!

bien: Hida cuisine and sake, and Gero has hot springs, too!

A truly restorative moment.

Thank you very much.

The interview article with CEO Ryuhei Uenoda is here