05.28

10th Kamisugi Shuzo Co., Ltd. (Anjo City, Aichi Prefecture)

Brewery Interviews

Toji Takao Nonogaki

Interviewee: Toji Takao Nonogaki (hereafter “Nonogaki”)

Interviewer: Ayako Yoshida of bien (hereafter “bien”)

10th Kamisugi Shuzo Co., Ltd. (Anjo City, Aichi Prefecture)

Toji Takao Nonogaki

bien: Nonogaki-san, what do you value most in sake making?

Nonogaki: Making sake that “moves the heart.”

It may sound odd, but it means I don't make sake that panders to everyone (laughs).

bien: What got you started in sake making?

Nonogaki: In university I worked part-time at a sake shop in Oita Prefecture and grew interested in sake.

Right around when I was job hunting I returned to Nagoya, interviewed, and immediately joined Kamisugi Shuzo.

bien: What did you study at university?

Nonogaki: Industrial chemistry. Completely unrelated! (laughs)

bien: What do you enjoy about sake making?

Nonogaki: I love eating, and I love drinking too.

So my joy is making my ideal sake — one I would drink and think is delicious.

Though of course it's a business, so I do feel I should make something with broad appeal.

bien: What sort of sake are you aiming to create?

Nonogaki: Sake that brings out the goodness of the rice. In our case especially, drawing out the quality of local rice.

bien: Is there anything you find difficult on a daily basis?

Nonogaki: Everything about sake making is hard!

But I like moving my body, so I absolutely hate doing paperwork (laughs).

Administrative work like that is really tough.

bien: In a few words, how would you describe Kamisugi's sake?

Nonogaki: We don't use Yamadanishiki, so a lot of our sake doesn't hold up at appraisal competitions.

But I feel jizake (地酒, local sake) has no meaning without distinctiveness. I want to preserve as much of the rice's goodness and umami as I can.

I think the umami of the rice is what makes it jizake.

I would like a gold medal, but not if it means changing my own convictions.

Our sake has character, but I hope people take that in a positive way.

bien: An unwavering philosophy that isn't swayed by others — wonderful.

Thank you very much.

Read the interview with President Takiya Sugimoto here