14th Toshu Shuzo Co., Ltd. (Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture)

Brewery Interviews

Founded in 1865.

Using well water from Moriyama Ward, Nagoya, they brew by hand

with their house-polished rice, in the time-honored yamahai (山廃) method.

Interviewee: President Yukihiko Sato (hereafter “Sato”)

Interviewer: Ayako Yoshida of bien (hereafter “bien”)

bien: You are the 6th generation. How many years has it been since you succeeded the business?

Sato: The succession was in 2002, so it has now been 17 years.

bien: When did you first come to work at the kura (酒蔵)?

Sato: I have been here since I was 27.

Since I know nothing of other industries,

I sometimes feel that what is common sense in the sake world is nonsense to the outside world.

If you were to look at the sake industry once from the perspective of another world,

fresh ideas would surely come to you.

bien: Well, changing things for the sake of novelty is not everything,

and Toshu has a long tradition of sincere sake making,

so you have a very orthodox image.

Sato: We don't really chase trends.

There is a ginjo (吟醸) boom, but we revived the old methods about 50 years ago,

restoring the traditional brewing techniques,

and have kept making yamahai kimoto (山廃/生酛) ever since.

bien: What is the reason behind your dedication to yamahai?

Sato: I want to preserve the flavor of the rice. When I think about that, yamahai is the answer.

bien: What is the flavor you are aiming for?

Sato: A sake with umami, richness, and a clean finish.

bien: That kind of flavor profile pairs well with Aichi ingredients, doesn't it?

Sato: Yes, it does.

This region is truly a land of fermentation, so the flavors match very well.

bien: Are you considering exporting overseas?

Sato: Yes. At the moment we have sales channels in Bangkok, Singapore, and Hong Kong.

If other opportunities come along, we would love to pursue them.

bien: As a kuramoto (蔵元), what would you like to convey to consumers?

Sato: It is nothing grandiose,

but I hope people will try various sakes and find ones they personally like.

No other people have palates as refined as the Japanese,

so I would like people to trust their own tongues rather than being swayed by what others say.

If it suits your palate, that is all that matters, and I think enjoying it is what counts most.

bien: I completely agree.

I too think drinking in a pleasant setting is the best.

What is your vision for the future?

Sato: It is about bringing out our individuality.

Consulting with the toji (杜氏) and the younger people,

changing the labels,

and making the most of everyone's sense and style.

Read the interview with toji Tatsuya Ando here